Features
ENGLISH STYLE COMBS were the standard of the combing industry from the Middle Ages until the late Industrial Revolution. Combing was the last aspect of wool processing to become mechanized. The Comber's Guild was the last fiber guild to fall to the Machine Age. Because they performed such a vital service, they set their own hours and tended to mix the arduous work with a healthy dose of "play". They were known as real party annuals. The English style comb is a different animal from its older cousins. English combs have up to eight rows of teeth. Instead of curving the teeth (as in the "primitive" combs), they are set in the head at an angle. The length of the teeth, their spacing and number of rows in a set of combs was determined by the type of wool to be processed. The longer the teeth, the more wool that can be combed at one time. More rows of teeth will clean the fleece more thoroughly, but will generate more waste, A two or three row set might be used to "break", or open, a fleece. Finer (with more rows) sets would then finish the job. A comber would have several different sets of combs at hand. What is the advantage of combing over carding? The question is moot, as the two methods produce two completely different materials with different uses. Cards produce rolags that can then be spun into a woolen yam that is soft and fuzzy. Combs produce a smooth roving that yields a worsted yarn that is smooth and firm. The arguments over which is better can go on forever, and are ultimately meaningless as each method is suitable for different products. For example woolen yarns make a fine weft that fulls (process of finishing cloth to create a denser, thicker cloth) well; while worsted yams yield a strong, smooth warp for the cloth. Worsted yam has all of its fibers neatly aligned and the scale on the fiber pointing in the same direction. If you stroke a strand of worsted spun yam, it will feel smoother in one direction than the other. Woolen yarns feel equally fuzzy in both directions and the fibers spiral in the yam. Combed rovings will spin up into a harder, stronger yam with less tendency to pill and a lovely, silk-like luster. It should be obvious, BUT in case its not, wool combs have very sharp, pointed teeth that can bite. They should be kept away from children, irresponsible adults, people under medication which might affect their coordination and any others that might not respect the combs. Avoid laying them on the floor, chairs or other places where they might bite somebody in embarrassing or uncomfortable locations. Be sure that the area in which you comb is kept free from stray pets, children and significant others. Again we stress, KEEP THEM AWAY FROM CHILDREN. Combs are tools and are not toys. Much as a good chef's knife, they are excellent tools that must be sharp to properly prepare the fiber. Used with care they prepare fiber in a most excellent manner. Now that you have been warned, on to the fun part -COMBING!
Combing requires fiber that is long enough to catch on the back row of teeth and then project an inch from the front row of teeth. Generally, English combs require a fleece at least two inches long. The fiber must be well washed, and often needs a little oil added back in after washing to aid the fibers in slipping past each other. Do not try to shorten this sequence by skipping the washing. Gummy, sticky fibers do not comb well, if at all Select a fiber (sheep, llama, silk, etc. etc.) with a fiber length of at least two inches. A four inch fleece is a good length of fiber to start with. As you become more proficient at combing, try other fibers of different lengths. Wash your fleece well and then oil it, if needed, fix your pad (base) securely to a firm stand about chest high. Set - covers to one side. Please put covers on combs when not in use. Slip one of the combs into the pad with the teeth pointing up. 3 Secure with the peg. This is the stationary comb. Lash the wool onto the upturned teeth until the teeth are about A- one third full. Only lash onto the outermost (or front) rows. The wool will move to the back rows as you comb. For true worsted be sure that you place the butt or cut end of the lock (the end of the lock that was nearest the animal) on the comb and that the tip hangs free. ill 11 ~~iL I- ~I ~ 0 C~~ LASHING ON - The process of putting the wool on the teeth of the comb. You apply the wool in a smooth continuous motion, rather than just impaling the wool on the teeth of the comb. As your hand moves downward, past the teeth of the stationary comb, wool is neatly can on the teeth. Lashing allows you to place teased and carded wool on comb teeth as well as single locks of fleece. Turn the loaded comb so that the teeth are parallel to the ground and pointing to your right, (For right handed people, reverse the direction if you are left handed!!!).
* If combing in a dry place, static electricity can be a problem. Spritz if the fiber with water or combing oil to tame the frizzes. Anti-static spray also works as does fabric softener mixed with water (one part softener to four parts water).
Processing to much fiber at one time is more work, takes longer and wastes wool. If the fiber "pops" off the top of the comb, you have put too much fiber on the comb. Pull some off and start combing again. Lash the leftover back on in the next load.
One does not have to start combing with locks of wool. Our friend Helen discovered that if you took drunicarded batts and lashed them on, a very nice roving could be produced. Although, technically, the yarn produced is not true worsted, it is very bard to distinguish between the final product of the two methods.
The real reason that combers used to heat the combs prior to combing became apparent during the winter of '94 in our semi-heated old farmhouse. The combing oil started to become sticky in the cold. Warming the wool solved the problem without having to heat the combs (or the house). Most people keep their homes warm enough that this is not a major problem.
If you comb two slightly different lengths of differently colored fiber together, a lovely, shaded roving will result. The longer fibers will pull out first, then the mix of medium length fibers and then the shorter ones.
Instructions for Washing Wool
Take one five gallon plastic pail (the ones you can get from any bakery). Add enough liquid detergent for one load of laundry (or the equivalent cleaner of your choice). If the wool is very dirty, add a cup of ammonia to the wash water. Fill one third full with hot tap water (as hot as possible). Add one to two pounds of wool, depending on how dirty it is (mermos are their own special problem). Fill pail to top with hot water. Make sure that the fiber is completely wetted and let sit for several hours. Remove the fleece from the water. Discard the dirty wash water. I use an old washing machine with separate settings to spin rinse the remaining dirty water and soap from the fleece. Make sure that the rinse temperature is very close to the wash temperature. DO NOT ever let the wool hit a cycle that agitates it or you will have a nice felt ball (great cat toy, lousy to spin!). You may have to wash a dirty fleece more than once. Always rinse well. Then lay the wool out to dry on a plastic screen.
Most people try to wash too much wool at one time or do not use enough detergent when they wash wool. In one case less can be more and in the other use more than you think is needed
If you have a very dirty fleece, wash it again using twice the soap and a cup of ammonia. Then rinse it several times. This should clean even merino. (Thank you Nancy Sentman for the tip!!)
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