Features:
The Prelude is the newest spinning wheel from the Kromskis of Poland. The Prelude is just the wheel for beginners or perhaps a second Kromski wheel for others. It has the look of an antique wheel and the high degree of wood turning that the Kromskis are famous for, but it also has all the touches modern spinners expect. It has the look of an antique wheel and the high degree of wood turning that the Kromskis are famous for, but it also has all the touches modern spinners expect. The Prelude is a single drive Scotch tension wheel.
The Prelude is a single drive wheel; a first for the Kromskis. The good news here is that it uses the same bobbins as all the other Kromski wheels. This means that, as you consider adding a second or third Kromski wheel, you know your bobbins will work with all the different models.
The Prelude is easy to treadle, easy to transport, and has an 18" diameter wheel (same as the Kromski Minstrel) for excellent ratios. If you like, you can swivel the mother-of-all in line with the bench for a more compact "package" when moving the wheel or for storage. The Prelude is made of European alder and birch. No Kromski wheel has any plastic parts and as such makes the perfect wheel for reenactors.
Additional specifications:
• wheel diameter - 18"
• orifice height - 26"; size - 3/8"
• bobbin size - full 4 oz.; 3 included -
• also includes threading hook, attached Lazy Kate, video and bottle of spinning wheel oil
• Ratios: 6, 10.5, and 13 to 1
• bearings on wheel shaft, bobbins; leather bearings on flyer
• weight - 9 lbs.
• in addition to a regular hemp drive band an elastic band will be included.
This wheel comes boxed as a kit but goes together quickly. It is available unfinished or with a factory clear, walnut or mahogany finish that is exceptional. A regular hemp drive band and elastic band will be included.
Extended Information:
Kromski Prelude Spinning Wheel
First, thanks for choosing the Kromski Prelude. We want your spinning experience to be enjoyable and the first thing to do is to assemble the wheel correctly and with care so that it works properly. We suggest you read through these instructions completely before you begin, as this will resolve any questions you may have before they arise. You may also use the video that came with your wheel but we ask that you read these instructions as we may have updated or otherwise corrected some information that is in the video.
After your wheel is assembled, we will offer a few words of advice about adjusting it and regular maintenance (also see the video).
Finishing
If you purchased an unfinished wheel, we suggest a finish of your choosing. A good wood stain and surface finish will help prevent a degree of staining from regular use and from the use of lubricating oil. Finishing a wheel prior to assembly is probably the best way to proceed. For a clear, natural look we suggest tung oil; otherwise, any quality stain and finish is acceptable. If you notice smudges on the wood (that result from your handling the parts) the easiest way to remove them is with a clean pencil eraser before applying the finish.
Unboxing the wheel
The Prelude was assemble, tested and boxed in Poland and has traveled some distance to get to you, so the first thing to do is to unbox the wheel, remove all the parts and check for any problems that may be obvious. If you observe a problem, contact your dealer.
Make sure all parts are unwrapped and set aside. Give yourself some room to work away from the parts so you don’t step on anything. Smaller parts are in plastic bags so you may want to empty the bags and examine these items.
Please refer to your video if you have any questions about part placement or adjustment.
Step 1
The first step is to attach the two wheel posts. Locate the 2 bolts, 2 silver washers, 2 cup washers and 2 barrel nuts. The two wheel posts are positioned in the two large holes on top of the bench. The posts are numbered to match the number in each hole on the bench. Near the bottom of each post, on the side, is a small hole; slip a barrel nut into each hole with the slot on the end of the nut facing out; the holes in the side of the posts should be towards the end of the bench. Bring the bolt and washers up from beneath the bench in a manner that will allow the bolt to thread into the barrel nut (as needed, rotate the nut to line it up with the bolt). Line up the registration mark at the bottom of each post with a similar mark that is on the bench. Snug, but do not completely tighten, the bolts.
Next, you will confirm the alignment of the posts by doing this easy check - Using a ruler or some other straight edge tool, place the tool in the wheel notches at the top of the posts. The flat back surface of the two posts must be aligned so that the straight edge is flat or flush against this surface that has been cut into both posts. Rotate one or both posts so that there is complete contact of the straight edge with the flat surface of both posts. Once achieved, tighten the 2 bolts securely.
Step 2
Next, assemble the front left and front right legs with the treadle. It is important that the holes at the bottom of these two legs (left leg is longer) be properly positioned; there is an inside and an outside to each leg. Test by matching registration marks at the top of the legs with similar marks on the bench. Rub the rail pins completely with candle wax and insert the pins into the ends of the treadle rail and tap in securely. Bring this assembly to the bottom of the wheel bench and slip the legs into place. Twist these posts as needed to align with registration marks on the legs with similar marks on the bench. Place the single rear leg (no hole at bottom of leg) in a similar manner. If you want to glue the legs in place, use wood glue on the legs and in the holes in the bench. Use a mallet to make sure the legs go all the way into the bench. Examine the assembly to make sure your treadle is not upside down, that it pivots easily and that the registration marks on the two front legs line up with marks on the bench.
Step 3
Locate the parts for the mother-of-all: the hinged base, front and rear maiden posts, scotch tension parts (eye hooks, spring and brake band, brake tension peg) and drive band adjusting screw. Go ahead and assemble these smaller parts on the mother-of-all (as shown in picture, right) then attach this assembly to the left end of the bench using a carriage bolt, washer and wing nut. Use the wooden plug (packed with elastic drive band) to cover the top of the carriage bolt by pushing it into the hole. You may glue this plug, if you like. The leather bearings should be parallel with each other and wheel.
The Scotch tension is assembled in this manner: two eye hooks are placed on each side of the mother-of-all base in pre-drilled holes. The spring is attached to the far outside hook; the brake band is tied to the spring and will go up and over the bobbin pulley, down to the next hook, and then forward to the tension peg.
Place a drive band in position - drop a loop over the front wheel post and the front maiden post. If you want to try the elastic band you can place it now too, so you have two bands in place.
Place a bobbin on the flyer spindle, being sure that the large bobbin pulley is positioned at the far end of the flyer. Mount the flyer in the following manner: position between the front and rear maidens with the front metal orifice in the front leather bearing and the rear of the spindle in the rear leather bearing. As you do this, make sure to place the drive band around one of the three whorls near the front of the flyer and place the brake band up and over the rear pulley on the bobbin. The small leather piece at the base of the spindle should remain in place.
A small eye bolt should be installed in a pre-drilled hole at the front left of the mother-of-all; this is used to hang your threading hook. If you prefer a different location for this eye bolt, just move it. You can use the large hole in the bench to store your hook when not spinning.
Step 4
Next, you will mount the wheel. First, place a washer and sleeve bearing on the front axle being sure to have the small oil hole on the bearing closest to the wheel hub. Position the wheel between the two wheel posts and drop axle into the post cut-outs with the crank to the rear of the spinning wheel. The axle is secured front and rear with small wooden locking pins. Rotate the bearing so that the small slot on the side of the bearing sits directly under the peg as it is pushed through the posts. The pins can be inserted from either side, or one one way, the other the oppisite - you decide which looks best. You may now bring the drive band up and on the wheel; tension the drive band by turning the tension adjusting screw at the base of the mother-of-all.
Step 5
The footman is next. Gently open the top of the footman and allow it to slide on the bushing that has been placed on the rear crank. Don’t overdo it; you do not want to open the footman any more than what is needed to get on the crank. Center the footman on the bushing, pinch it closed and secure with a small screw.
The bottom of the footman is secured to the treadle using the leather tie. There is no set rule as to how to do this, but here is our suggestion. First, use a candle to wax the surface of the leather to reduce any squeaking that may result from movement. Thread through the hole at the bottom of the footman and tie 1 overhand knot evenly and tight, right at the bottom of the footman. Thread both ends of the leather down through the rear hole on the treadle; pull tight to remove any slack and so the overhand knot is somewhat in the rear hole. Thread one end up through the other hole and tie the two ends together, perhaps with a bow. The connection at the footman and treadle should be as tight as possible; try not to induce any twist in the footman as you do this; the side of the footman should be close to parallel with the side of the wheel.
Step 6
The last assembly step will have you attach the bobbin rack to the wheel bench using a carriage bolt, washer and wing nut. It is located on the spinner side of the bench, just left of the wheel post.
Basic Single Drive Spinning Wheel instructions
The Prelude has 3 speeds, or ratios: 6, 10 and 13 to one (slightly less with elastic band). The higher the ratio, the faster twist develops in your yarn. If you are a beginner, use the largest, slowest speed to learn to spin. To change speeds, place the drive band on one of the 3 whorls at the front of the flyer and adjust the tension on the drive band. Since this is a single drive wheel, tension is correct when there is no slippage of the drive band on either the wheel or the flyer. Increase tension to just beyond the point when slippage is eliminated. Excessive tension will degrade the ease of treadling.
Typically spinners rotate the wheel clockwise when spinning, counter-clockwise when plying. How you direct your yarn onto the flyer and onto the bobbin is important; done the wrong way and you will not achieve “take-up” of the yarn onto the bobbin. So, from your hand the yarn enters the flyer orifice (position the flyer so the arms are at 3 and 9 o’clock) and exits out the top hole at the rear of the orifice. From here, the yarn will go off to the right to the first hook; along the row of hooks and then to the bobbin, over the top of the bobbin core as if you were winding on the yarn by turning the bobbin in a counter-clockwise direction.
When you ply (and your wheel is turning in a counter-clockwise direction), the plied yarn takes the same route noted above BUT from the hooks, the yarn goes under the bobbin core and is wound on as if the bobbin were turned in the clock-wise direction.
The Scotch tension braking system on the Prelude is critical to the proper working of the wheel. It creates drag on the bobbin that allows the yarn coming off the flyer hooks to be wrapped around the bobbin core. As you begin to spin, you will not need much tension on the brake band, but as the bobbin fills up and gets heavier, more tension must be added. How much? Not much, and the increase in tension will be little “tweaks” as the bobbin fills up. Best to use the biggest pulley on the bobbin with the brake band. You need to feel the yarn in your hand wanting to be pulled into the orifice; if the pull is not strong enough to carry the yarn onto the bobbin, increase tension; if you sense the pull is too strong and might even break your yarn, back off on the tension.
When you are plying, you will need more tension on the brake band as the dynamics are different than when spinning. The yarn is now heavier and there is more resistance going through the orifice and along the hooks. Tension on the drive band may also have to be increased when plying. As you ply, the “feel” of the treadle may seem harder than when just spinning as you may need more tension on the drive band.
Optional elastic drive band
New Voyager Trading has included with your Prelude an elastic drive band. If your wheel is finished mahogany or walnut, we have also dyed the band to match the wood (if you have a clear band you too can dye it; the material is hygroscopic and will take dye; the resulting length may increase so a new splice may be required. See instructions with drive band).
The elastic band has some advantages on a single drive wheel. It has great gripping power without placing excessive tension on the drive band (which can degrade the treadling feel) and, because it is elastic, you should be able to switch ratios/speeds without touching the tension adjusting screw. Just tension the elastic band while it is in the smallest whorl so that there is no slippage; when you change speeds, just move the band from whorl to whorl; that easy.
Maintenance
As with any new wheel, there will be a break-in period, not only for the wheel but for the spinner to get accustomed to the feel and adjustments that need to be made during spinning. Follow the lubrication suggestions below and then treadle for a while without spinning. Find the best location on the treadle for good heel/toe action as you treadle. Perhaps treadle with no shoes to get a better feel.
New bobbins on new flyers sometimes can be sluggish. Make sure there is nothing on the shaft that will impede easy rotation of the bobbin. Lubricate as noted below. Kromski bobbins use metal bearings so you may have some metal to metal sound as the flyer rotates. This is normal. Make sure the treadle/footman connection is secure.
Your Kromski Prelude comes with a handy needle nose oiling bottle. All spinning wheels have points that require lubrication. We recommend that all these points be oiled when you begin spinning for the day. On the Prelude, you need to regularly oil the following points:
- Treadle ends where they enter the front legs; not critical. You can also use candle wax here when putting together.
- Leather bearings that support the flyer; these bearings should be well oiled. Leather holds a reserve of lubricant but out of the box they will require a good bit of oil; see note below
- Metal spindle shaft at both ends where the bobbin bearings ride
- The footman/crank locations
- The two metal sleeve bearings that hold the axle; a small oil hole is on each for adding lubricant.
The leather bearings work great on spinning wheels but they do require oiling. New bearings absorb a good deal of oil. We suggest you oil now and continue until the leather is saturated with oil. You may also set the leather bearings into a small dish of oil and allow the lubricant to wick up into the leather. Out of the box, this is the fastest way to get oil into the leather. Thereafter, just use the oil bottle to maintain proper lubrication.
Storage/Transport
The Kromskis have made it possible to “stow” the mother-of-all parts up under the wheel if you think this is an easier and more compact way to store or travel with your wheel. Just loosen the wing nut under the bench and rotate the mother-of-all until the positioning peg under the hinged section can drop in the storage hole on the bench. Use the drive band to tie the flyer to the front wheel post. Store your threading hook in the large hole on the bench.
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