Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel, kromski spinning wheel, traditional spinning wheel, classic spinning wheel, spinning wheel

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Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel

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The Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel is the beautiful handcrafted image you would expect a spinning wheel to take from a fairytale. You can picture the "ladies in waiting" gathered together in the castle spinning as a group, all on The Symphony. This wheel not only works great but is a true work of art from the Kromski family in Poland and is a very high quality full size wheel. This spinning wheel comes with a $40 fiber credit good for any of our top quality spinning fibers we offer.

Item#	Item Name	Our Price	Qty	Add
2351-0001	Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel - Clear	$650.00
2351-0006	Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel - Mahogany	$650.00
2351-0010	Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel - Unfinished	$550.00
2351-0008	Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel - Walnut	$650.00
Check the items you wish to purchase, then click

Features:

This wheel has the details spinners have come to expect with Kromski products - lots of finely turned wood, attention to detail, and all the features spinners ask for. Start with a good size wheel diameter - 24" - that rotates on bearing sleeves that contribute to effortless treadling. The double treadles are well engineered to be comfortable through long spinning sessions. The flyer is double drive but also has Scotch tensioning for single drive use (at no additional charge). The bobbins will hold a full 4 oz. package of yarn and they fit on all the other Kromski wheels if you start a collection.

The Symphony is made of European alder and birch. No Kromski wheel has any plastic parts and as such makes the perfect wheel for reenactors. Additional specifications:

� wheel diameter - 24"
� orifice height - 27"; size - 3/8"
� bobbin size - full 4 oz.; 3 included -
� also includes threading hook, tensioned Kate and bottle of spinning wheel oil
� Ratios: 7.5, 10, 16 and 20 to 1; 2 whorls included
� bearings on wheel shaft, bobbins and treadle; leather bearings on flyer
� weight - 15 lbs.

This wheel comes boxed as a kit and requires about an hour to assemble. It is available unfinished or with a factory clear, walnut or mahogany finish that is exceptional (see a sample of the finishes further down this page).

Extended Information:

Kromski Symphony Spinning Wheel First, thanks for choosing the Kromski Symphony. We want your spinning experience to be enjoyable and the first thing to do is to assemble the wheel correctly and with care so that it works properly. We suggest you read through these instructions completely before you begin as this will resolve any questions you may have before they arise. You may also use the video that came with your wheel but we ask that you read these instructions as we may have updated or otherwise corrected some information that is in the video. After your wheel is assembled, we will offer a few words of advice about adjusting it and regular maintenance (also see the video). Finishing If you purchased an unfinished wheel, we suggest a finish of your choosing. A good wood stain and surface finish will help prevent a degree of staining from regular use and from the use of lubricating oil. Finishing a wheel prior to assembly is probably the best way to proceed. For a clear, natural look we suggest tung oil; otherwise, any quality stain and finish is acceptable. If you notice smudges on the wood (that result from your handling the parts) the easiest way to remove them is with a clean pencil eraser before applying the finish. Unboxing the wheel The Symphony was boxed in Poland and has traveled some distance to get to you, so the first thing to do is to unbox the wheel, remove all the parts and check for any problems that may be obvious. If you observe a problem, contact your dealer. Make sure all parts are unwrapped and set aside. Give yourself some room to work away from the parts so you don�t step on anything. Smaller parts are in plastic bags so you may want to empty the bags and examine these items. Everything will go together easily so don�t be concerned with the number of parts. Please refer to your video if you have any questions about part placement or adjustment. Step 1 The first step is to attach the rear leg (the front legs and treadle assembly are already in place). Turn the bench upside-down so that the hole for the rear leg is accessible. Slip the rear leg into the hole. You may glue the top of the leg if you like. Set the frame on its legs and make sure the treadles move easily and they look like the picture. Please do not glue the leg if you believe something has happened to these parts during shipment. Step 2 Now you will mount the wheel posts. Locate the 2 bolts, 2 silver washers, 2 brass washers and 2 barrel nuts. The two wheel posts are positioned in the two large holes on top of the bench; the flat surface near the base of the posts should face towards each other. Near the bottom of each post, on the side, is a small hole; slip the barrel nut into each hole with the slot on the end of the nut facing out; the holes in the side of the posts should be towards the end of the bench. Bring the bolt and washers up from beneath the bench in a manner that will allow the bolt to thread into the barrel nut (as needed, rotate the nut to line it up with the bolt). Snug, but do not completely tighten the bolt. At this time, you want to position your drive band; make a double loop and drop it over the front wheel post. Step 3 You will mount the wheel on the two wheel posts. Locate a brass sleeve bearing and washer from your parts and slip on the wheel axle, washer first, then the bearing (Video may confuss you - have the oil hole on theinside, near the wheel) . Bring the wheel to the top of the wheel posts and lower the axle into the slots on the top of the posts until the bearings rest at the bottom of the slot. Secure the wheel axles with two wooden pegs, being sure to orient the small groove on the outside surface of the bearing on top; the wooden peg will slip along this groove as you push it in. Snug in the pegs. Step 4 Locate the two footmen that connect the treadles to the crank. Remove the small screw(s) in each and slip the footmen onto the crank (gently open the cut at the top of the footman just so you can slip it on the crank). The footman with the larger top hole must be put in the back position; this rear footman mounts on the brass bushing. Pinch the top of the footmen together and tighten screws (the inside footman must swing easily on the crank; don�t over tighten the screws on this footman). The footman nearest the wheel hub will be tied to the right treadle; the rear footman is tied to the left treadle. Loop a length of leather through the hole at the end of each footman then thread both ends down through the larger hole on the treadle; remove any slack. Pull the two ends up through the two remaining holes in the treadle, pull tightly again, then tie. There must not be any slack in this connection. Over time you will need to re-tie this connection as the leather will stretch some. Step 5 The flyer, bobbin and whorls (2 - small and large) are next. Locate these items. Note that the bobbins have different size pulleys on each end. How you use these bobbins with the two whorls is important. Normal operation suggests that when you are using the larger whorl (for slowing ratios or speed of twist) you orient the bobbin on the metal shaft with the larger pulley next to the whorl. When using the small whorl, you must always place the small bobbin pulley next to the whorl; your yarn will not go on the bobbin if you do otherwise . For beginners, we suggest you assemble your flyer with the larger whorl so you will be set up for slower spinning when you begin. AS WITH MOST DOUBLE DRIVE WHEELS, THE WHORLS AND SPINDLE SHAFT ARE REVERSE THREADED. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ATTACH THE WHORL IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. GOING ON, TURN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION. CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE. DON�T LET CHILDREN PLAY WITH THIS. Step 6 The mother-of-all assembly will be installed next. Locate the long wood tensioning adjusting screw, wooden bolt (threaded on one end, hole in the other), locking peg, mother-of-all support, mother-of-all base, round wooden locking nut, and two maiden posts (front and rear). Some of these parts will be pre-assembled for you. Position short threaded piece into the large slot on the left end of the bench; push the tensioning screw into the hole on the extreme end of the bench and thread it through the first piece. When the tensioning screw can be pushed in all the way, push the locking peg into the hole on the bottom of the bench so that it secures the tension screw. Drop the sliding mounting block (rotate 180� to find best fit) and mother-of-all base onto the upright threaded piece. Thread on the round wooden nut, but keep it loose for now. Bring the assembled flyer to the wheel. Bring the double loop of the drive band to the flyer and position one loop on the larger groove of the whorl and the other on the bobbin pulley. Insert the back of the flyer into the small hole in the rear leather bearing and drop the front (the large piece of metal) down into the front bearing. The front should snap into the front bearing. The leather bearings work great on spinning wheels but they do require oiling. New bearings absorb a good deal of oil. We suggest you oil now and continue until the leather is saturated with oil. Step 7 Now you will add a number ofsmall items to your wheel. The extra whorl you have can be conveniently stored on the wheel bench; locate short straight dowel and push into the predrilled hole on the bench top (between flyer and wheel posts); drop extra whorl on this peg. The threading hook is stored on the wheel bench in a hole designed just for this. Post caps - each wheel post must be outfitted with a fancy wooden cap and a small wooden guide shaped like an �H� (rotate guide 180� to find best fit; this goes under the cap). Scotch tension setup (you may ignore if you do not intend to use Scotch tension). The brake band for scotch tension is in the parts bag with a spring attached. Attach the spring to the eye bolt that you will install in a predrilled hole on the left side of the Mother-of-all (that is in-line with the bobbin pulley). Loop the string over the bobbin pulley, then down to another predrilled hole. Attach another eye bolt. Thread the brake band through this eye bolt. Secure by tying the string through the hole in the brake peg with enough slack to allow you to wind the string around the peg as you apply braking to the bobbin. It is best to wind so that you achieve more braking by turning in a clockwise direction. If you are not using the brake (when in double drive operation), drape the band under the flyer. (If you would like to remove the spring for easier bobbin changing, use pliers to open the eye bolt a bit.) Wheel adjustment Place the drive band (two loops) around the wheel. To get the band in position it may be necessary to tighten or loosen the tension on the band by turning the tension adjusting knob at the end of the bench. If you are a beginner, the question always is, �how much tension?� The drive band should not slip on the wheel or flyer as you treadle, but until your begin spinning, it is impossible to know if the band is set right. It need never be very tight. Part of spinning is adjusting the tension for the conditions you are working with. Now you will adjust the angle of the wheel to the flyer (this is shown very well in the video). Your two wheel posts are in position holding the wheel but you have not firmly tightened the bolts under the bench. Standing over the end of the wheel, grab both posts and rotate them together; as you rotate, watch the rim of the wheel and the direction of the drive band to the flyer. You want the drive band to make a straight line from the rim of the wheel to the whorl and the bobbin pulley. Test by spinning the wheel several rotations and watch where the drive band tracks on the wheel. If needed, rotate the wheel posts more to get the best possible tracking. Now firmly tighten the two bolts under the wheel posts. Tensioned Lazy Kate - see picture on parts list Assemble as you see in the picture, making sure that the two cross supports that have holes in them (one small hole for an eyescrew and a larger hole for a thumb peg) are both on the same side of the frame - left or right, it makes no difference. Glue the cross supports if you like. From the parts bag, locate a small eyescrew, spring and brake band. Attach the eyescrew into the small hole on the cross support; attach the spring to the eyescrew. The brake band comes over the top of the Lazy Kate and the end should be tied to the thumb screw. Your bobbins go on the metal rods with the brake band going over the pulleys that are at the end of each bobbin. Tighten the thumb screw as needed to create drag on the bobbins as you ply. Maintenance As with any new wheel, there will be a break-in period, not only for the wheel but for the spinner to get accustomed to the feel and adjustments that need to be made during spinning. Follow the lubrication suggestions below and then treadle for a while without spinning. New bobbins on new flyers sometimes can be sluggish. Make sure there is nothing on the shaft that will impede easy rotation of the bobbin. Lubricate as noted below. Make sure the treadle/footman connection is secure. All spinning wheels have points that require lubrication. On the Symphony, you need to regularly oil the following points: - Treadle ends where they enter the front legs - The metal support rod that is inside the treadle rails; locate the oil holes on the back side of the treadle rail. - Leather bearings that support the flyer - Metal spindle shaft at both ends where the bobbin bearings ride - The footman/crank locations - The two metal sleeve bearings that hold the axle; a small oil hole is on each for adding lubricant. Your Kromski Symphony comes with a handy needle nose oiling bottle. It is ideal for all these locations. We recommend that all these points be oiled when you begin spinning for the day. One other step you may care to take is waxing the wooden screw threads on the tension adjusting screw. To do this, remove the screw. Using a candle, paraffin or furniture wax (never soap), work the wax onto the threads from one end to the other. Apply some wax to the area above the threaded area as well. Reassemble and you should notice easier movement.

Average Customer Review: Based on 1 Reviews. Write a review.

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:

Lovely wheel at a great price!	December 12, 2007
Reviewer: Anonymous person from San Francisco,�CA�United States

The Kromski Synphony is a beautiful wheel and worthy of a place of honor in your home! It has simple engineering, making it easy to adjust to your style. Kromski wheels often have little quirks, such as bobbins that chatter or other little squeaks and thumps. But they can all be remedied with minor fixes involving candle wax or a little sandpaper. Also the customer service from New Voyager Trading, who import the wheels, is first class and they can answer just about any question you have. This wheel is a real value, and will provide you with hours of spinning pleasure.

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