Immersion Dyeing using PRO MX Reactive Dyes

Please read directions carefully before starting.

For Batik and Solid Shade dyeing on Cotton, Linen, Rayon and Silk. Always do test samples before working on a large project. For additional information, visit our website at www.prochemical.com.

• Wear rubber gloves, apron or old clothes.
• Utensils used for dyeing should never be used for food preparation.

Supplies
PRO MX Dye Powder
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Synthrapol
Common Salt
Metaphos ( water softener): optional - use if you have hard water)

Procedure
1.Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with ½ tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash and ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

2. Dissolve dye powder. Measure the dissolve desired amount of dye powder, from the chart below, in 2 cups (500 ml) room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water and set aside.

For each pound (454 g) of dry fabric use:

3. Prepare dye bath by measuring 2½ gallons (10 liters) of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water for every pound (454 gm) of fabric into a large plastic, stainless steel, enamel or non-reactive metal container. Container should be large enough for the fabric to move freely and to stir the dye bath without spilling.

4. Add salt (see chart above) and 1 level tsp (7 gm) Metaphos (optional, water softener) to the dye bath and stir until dissolved. Add dissolved dye and stir. Add washed and damp fabric. Stir continuously for even results for 10 to 15 minutes, or do not stir for mottled results.

5. Completely dissolve PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash from the chart above in 2 cups (500ml) warm 95^oF (35^oC) water. While wearing rubber gloves remove the fabric from dye bath and pour in the dissolved PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash. Give it a stir and return the fabric to dye bath. Stir continuously for the first 5 minutes. Then, give a stir every 5 minutes for the next 60 minutes. This will insure maximum permanence and depth of shade.

• For even dye results, stir constantly during the first 30 minutes of the dye bath.
• To achieve a Deep Black, extend dyeing to 90 minutes after adding PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash.

6. Rinse & wash. After 60 minutes (90 minutes, for black), dyeing is complete. Remove fabric from dye bucket and pour the exhausted dye bath down the drain. Rinse fabric thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4 times. Wash in HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water, adding ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse well and dry. Dark colors may need a second HOT Synthrapol wash. If the rinse water is not clear, then wash it again in HOT water with Synthrapol.

TECHNICAL NOTES

• Dye baths cannot be stored or reused after PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash has been added.
• If your water is hard, include Metaphos in dye bath.
• It is important to make sure dye powder is dissolved thoroughly before adding to dye bath. If necessary, use additional water to dissolve dye powder and strain dye liquor through layers of nylon stockings or cheesecloth. Dye that is not dissolved before adding to dye bath will not continue to dissolve after being added to the dye bath.
• Non-iodized Salt is recommended. In most situations, salt with iodine can be used in place of Non-iodized Salt without altering dye results.
• Increase or decrease quantities in the above chart for larger or smaller amounts of fabric.

Batik Dyeing Instructions

Batik is an ancient form of resist dyeing. Unwaxed areas of the fabric absorb dye while the waxed areas resist the dye, preserving the original color of the fabric. More wax is added to dyed areas preserving the new color and the fabric is dipped in another color of dye. Repeat this process until the design is completed then remove the wax. Designs may involve only one or many colors depending upon the number of times the hot wax is applied and the cloth is dipped into different colored dye baths. For additional information visit our web site at www.prochemical.com.

• Always use proper ventilation in your work area. Create a local exhaust system by putting a portable exhaust fan in a window, so it pulls air from the room to the outside.
• Heated wax releases irritating chemicals including acrolein and aldehydes. There is no approved MSHA/NIOSH filter for acrolein. A respirator is not a substitute for good ventilation.
• Heat wax to the lowest temperature at which it remains liquid.
• Do not leave hot wax unattended, as it is a fire hazard.
• Keep water away from the wax pot, as it will splatter. Always make sure you have a fire extinguisher or bucket of sand nearby in case of fire.
• Wax forms potentially hazardous vapors at high temperatures and may ignite. Do not use open flames, such as a gas or propane burner, instead use a crock pot or electric fry pan with temperature control.
• Make sure your hair is tied back and sleeves are rolled up when using heating equipment.
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Wear rubber gloves, apron or old clothes.
• Utensils used for dyeing should never be used for food preparation.

Supplies                                                                                                     Equipment

Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with � tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash and � tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

2. Transfer your design and stretch the fabric.
Use light weight fabric, such as fine cotton, silk, rayon, and linen for your first attempts, as wax penetrates easily on light weight fabrics. Heavier fabrics can be successfully batiked. Since wax does not penetrate them easily, they require waxing on both sides to prevent the dye from penetrating from the underside. Before stretching your fabric, draw your design with a washable marker or soft pencil. Keep the design simple for your first attempts.

3. Stretch the fabric on a wooden stretcher or picture frame, embroidery hoop, or cardboard box. Tape or tack the center of each side and then the corners. The fabric needs to be taut. Also, stretch a small piece of fabric in an embroidery hoop or on a stretcher frame. This is your test fabric to sample brush and tjanting strokes.

4. Melt the wax.
The wax should never be heated to the point where is begins to smoke. Heat Batik Wax to approximately 240^oF (115^oC). Heat wax in an electric skillet with a thermostat or use a double boiler, or tin can in an old sauce pan on a hot plate. Remember that wax is too hot if it smokes. See above for proper ventilation safety while working with hot wax.

5. How to use a tjanting.
The tjanting, or wax pen, is a drawing tool and produces a continuous flow of hot wax for outline and linear motifs. Tjantings come in different shapes and sizes. They have one or two spouts, or one wide brush spout and are available in small, medium, or large diameter spouts. The width of line is determined by the diameter of the spout, the speed you are drawing, temperature of wax, and angle of the tjanting. Hold the tjanting like you are holding a knife.

Make a few practice strokes on your stretched sample fabric to get a feel and consistent flow of wax. Very hot wax right out of the wax pot may flow too freely. When the wax becomes sluggish, reheat it to the proper consistency by redipping the tjanting in the hot wax pot. Use a wire or pin to clear the spout if the tjanting is clogged.

Natural bristle brushes are suitable to fill large areas. Do not use synthetic brushes as they melt in the hot wax.

6. Apply the wax
Heat the wax and put your brush or the tjanting in it for at least one minute until the metal bowl is hot. Fill the reservoir about three quarters full so the wax does not flow over the top while you are working. Follow the pencil lines you've drawn on the fabric. Make sure there are no gaps in the lines or at the points where they join. Hold the tjanting at an angle, like a knife, as you work. Use a metal spoon to catch drips while you start and stop your design, and when you move the tjanting from the fabric to the wax pot to refill. If you accidentally drip wax, incorporate the dots into the design. Use quick deliberate strokes, as the wax cools quickly in the tjanting or on a brush.

Wax only the first color where you want it retained. Once the front of the fabric is waxed, turn it over and wax any areas that did not penetrate completely. Wax that is too cool will not penetrate through to the reverse side of the fabric and will sit on top. Heavier fabric usually requires hotter wax. The wax should appear clear when you apply it and your fabric should be translucent when the wax cools. Since wax is brittle when cold, the wax design often cracks when the cloth is handled. Dye seeps into the cracks making the characteristic web-like pattern known as crackle.

Never fold an unfinished, waxed batik. Hang it so it will not be disturbed. Do not wax damp fabric as the wax will not penetrate the fabric.

7. Color mixing through solid shade immersion dye baths
Successive immersion dye baths build color. Dye the lightest color first progressing to the darkest. Since the colors are dyed one on top of the other, except where the fabric is waxed, they combine to produce new colors. For example, if the first color is yellow and the second color is blue the mixture creates green. Similarly, if the first color is red and the second color is blue the mixture creates purple. In either example, you cannot obtain blue, only mixtures with blue. It's helpful to know basic color mixing to take advantage of this aspect and be prepared to experiment with color mixing. It is important to plan the dye color order before beginning.

Some colors do not show up over darker colors. In general, use yellow, red, then blue. Dye your fabric the lightest color and wax it only where you want it reserved. Dye the fabric a darker color (the next lightest). Each new color intermixes with the previous color. Repeat waxing and dyeing for as many colors as wanted, covering areas with wax, and dyeing a darker color each time.

8. Dyeing
Choose the traditional solid shade immersion dye bath or direct application dye procedure below.

Solid Shade Immersion Dyeing

If you want to avoid a lot of crackle use a flat tray or bin to hold the dye so the fabric does not have to fold. This way the fabric stays flat so you can control the amount of crackle. Salt and PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash break down the wax resist. Therefore, less salt and PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash are used in batik and the dye bath time is shortened.

• Measure enough room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water to cover your fabric, counting the number of gallons. Soak your waxed fabric for 15 minutes. Remove and set aside.
• Measure the appropriate amount of salt and add it to the water. Dissolve the appropriate amount of PRO MX Fiber Reactive Dye powder separately in two cups of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water. Once it is thoroughly dissolved, add it to the dye bath. For each gallon of water use:

Then add waxed fabric to the dye bath and let it sit for 10 minutes.

• Completely dissolve the PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash in one cup (250 ml) of warm 120^o F (49^oC) water. After the 10 minutes carefully remove the fabric. Add the dissolved dye activator to the dye bath and return the fabric. Stirring is not necessary but it is a good idea to gently shift fabric from side to side in the tray.

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After 30 minutes (for pale shades) to 45 minutes (for dark shades) dyeing is complete. Remove fabric from dye bath. Strain dye bath, wash, and rinse water to insure wax does not go down the drain. Discard strained, exhausted dye bath down the drain. Gently rinse the fabric in your tray a couple of times with cool water. The key is to keep your fabric flat. Do not squeeze or wring out the excess water. Instead, hang the fabric in a shaded area to dry. Hang it carefully from one edge with clothes pins on a clothesline, not doubled over on a clothesline. Once dry, it is ready for waxing and dyeing again

Direct Application

This approach offers flexibility and a variety of color and pattern possibilities that cannot be obtained with the traditional immersion dye bath approach. Hand painting color is useful for very large pieces that are too large for an immersion dye bath.

After initial waxing takes place, the dye solution is hand painted within the areas blocked out by the wax. It is easy to blend or juxtapose several colors within the same waxed area. Synthetic bristle paint brushes work best for controlled application of dye. Foam brushes work well for larger areas.

• Make the urea water. Measure 9 level Tbl (100 gm) Urea into a 1 quart (1 liter) container. Measure 1 quart (1 liter) 120^oF (49^oC) water into the container and stir until dissolved. Cool urea water to room temperature before using.
• Make the dye solution. Measure the dye powder, from the chart below, into a dry 1 cup (250 ml) measure. Dissolve measured dye with 1 cup (250 ml) of urea water.

• Make mixed alkali. In a � cup (125 ml) jar with lid mix 4 Tbl (50 gm) baking soda and 1 Tbl (9 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash. Cap jar and shake until well mixed. Label, date, and store mixed alkali in a cool, dry place.
• Just before you are ready to paint add 1 tsp (4 gm) Mixed Alkali to each cup of dye solution. Mix until well blended and mark the time on the jar. Discard dye solution after 4 hours.
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Paint dye and allow fabric to set undisturbed for 4 hours for pale shades, and 24 hours for dark shades. Room temperature must be above 70^oF (24^oC) during cure time. Cover fabric if it is drying out.
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After 4 to 24 hours dyeing is complete. Uncover fabric and let it completely dry. Once the fabric is dry it is ready for waxing and over dyeing.
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Once your batik is completed, gently rinse the fabric in cool water a couple of times to remove the excess baking soda and dye activator. Strain the wash and rinse water to insure the wax does not go down the drain.

9. Waxing and over dyeing
After the fabric is rinsed and completely dry, pin it to the stretchers and wax the areas that you want to stay the second color. Examine the first waxing and re-wax areas where the wax is deteriorating. Repeat Applying the wax and Dyeing until your design and color combinations are completed.

10. Crackling
Before the last dye bath, cover the entire batik with wax and crackle it before dyeing your last color; the last color is usually a dark color. The dye penetrates into the crackled areas producing the characteristic batik effect. You can control the amount of crackle, to cover only part of the design or cover the entire piece with an overall effect, by how it is handled through the dye process.

11. Always remember to use proper ventilation when wax is heated. Remove wax by rubbing the dried fabric together and flake off as much wax as possible. The wax that falls off may be saved and reused for future batiks. The remainder of the wax is removed by one of two methods, ironing and boiling or ironing and dry cleaning. Silk should never be boiled and should be ironed and dry cleaned to remove excess wax.

12. Ironing Since wax clogs the vents of a steam iron, look at garage sales for an old plain electric iron to use only for batik. Place several sheets of newspaper over the ironing surface and cover them with plain newsprint. Lay the fabric on this, and cover with a layer of plain newsprint then newspaper. Press with sufficient heat to melt the wax out of the fabric. Use the Removing waxhottest setting your fabric can withstand and iron until the wax saturates the paper. Peel the paper off while it is still warm and replace it with additional newsprint. Change the paper and repeat this process until no traces of wax remain on the paper.

13. Boiling Fill a large enamel or stainless steel pot, which you do not use for cooking, with enough water to cover your fabric. Boil for five to ten minutes, stirring the fabric to change the folds, allowing the wax to float to the surface. Remove the pot from the stove. Make sure the fabric is submerged while the water cools. Skim the solidified wax off the surface and set it aside for reclaiming. Remove the fabric from the cooled water. If your fabric still contains a lot of wax, repeat this boiling process then go on to soap boiling.

14. Soap boiling Refill your pot with water and add 1 Tbl(15 ml) of Synthrapol or shaved ivory bar soap. Add fabric and boil for five to ten minutes, stirring the fabric to change the folds, allowing the wax to float to the surface. Allow wax to cool and skim wax off the surface and throw it away. Remove your batik and rinse it several times in a bucket of water. Repeat soap boiling if there is any wax residue. Do not pour hot rinse water that contains any melted wax down the drain. Strain cooled rinse water to insure wax does not go down the drain. Do not use this method for silk.

15. Reclaiming wax Reclaim flaked and boiled wax. Do not reclaim soap boiled wax. Reclaimed wax is good for crackle effects and is best to keep it separate from new wax. Collect all the removed wax and melt it in a pot with some water. Boil the melted wax for 15 to 20 minutes then set it aside to cool. Once the wax is solidified on top of the water, remove it from the pot. Scrape off and discard the sediment from the underside of the wax. The remaining clean wax is ready to reuse.

Silk Painting Instructions

Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dyes
Urea
Citric Acid Crystals
Synthrapol
Gutta or Sabra Silk Resist

Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with � tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash and � tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

2. Transfer the design to your fabric using a soft pencil. You may want to draw your design freehand or use a light table to help you transfer the design. You can also use a window or sliding glass door. Tape the pattern to the glass surface; then tape the fabric over the pattern and lightly trace the design onto the fabric.

3. Stretch the fabric. Use a lightweight silk for your first attempts, as the resist penetrates easily on light weight fabrics. There are several frames available on the market to stretch fabric for silk painting. You can also make your own using an artist stretcher frame and stainless steel pushpins. First pin the corners, then the middle of the sides, pulling the fabric taut. You can avoid stretch lines by staggering the placement of the pushpins and not placing them directly across from one another. Continue placing pins every 2 to 3 inches around all four sides, always pinning from the center to the corners.

4. Apply the resist by pressing the applicator tip firmly against the stretched fabric. It is important to maintain an even flow and continuous line as you trace the design. Dye paint will flow through any gaps in the resist line. Check the back of your fabric to make sure the resist penetrated through. If you see any gaps, fill them in from the front. You may need to apply the resist on both sides of heavy fabric. Once you've outlined your design, let the resist dry.

5. Prepare chemical water by mixing together the ingredients below. Allow chemical water to cool to room temperature before using. This should be stored in a covered container, when not in use. Discard it if you detect an ammonia smell.

� cup (188 ml) warm 120^oF(49^oC) water
5 tsp (20 gm) Urea
1 tsp (6 gm) Citric Acid Crystals
� tsp (1.25 ml) Synthrapol
Water to equal one cup (250 ml)

6. Make the Dye Paint. Thoroughly dissolve the desired amount of dye powder, from the following chart, with just enough chemical water to make a lump free paste (approximately � cup or 60 ml). Then add chemical water to make 1 cup (250 ml) of Dye Paint and stir until thoroughly mixed. Dye paint will retain maximum color yield for 4-5 hours.

For each cup of Dye Paint, use the amount listed below of PRO MX Reactive Dye powder for the desired shade.

7. Apply the dye. Fill a wide mouth container with water; use this to rinse your brushes. The size of the area you are painting determines the size of brush you need. Use a small brush for small areas and a larger brush to cover bigger areas. Dip the brush into the dye paint and lightly touch the brush to the center of an enclosed area. Allow the dye paint to spread out to the resist line. Continue adding dye paint and blending brush strokes or colors while dye is still wet and until the enclosed area is filled. Work quickly to prevent the dye form drying before you have all the color applied to an area. Be careful not to flood the fabric with too much dye, or the resist lines will break. Use a cotton swab or dry brush to mop up extra dye that pools in an enclosed area. Do not paint over the resist line.

8. Fix the dye, by covering your silk with plastic (a black plastic bag works great) to prevent the silk from drying out. Allow the dyes to cure for 24 hours or longer. The temperature of the room must be above 70^oF (21^oC). The warmer the "cure" temperature, the darker the final color.

9. Rinse the fabric. After setting the dye, rinse fabric thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75^oF to 95^oF (24^oC to 35^oC) water. Change the water 3 to 4 times. Then wash with very HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water adding � tsp (2 ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse well and dry. Black and very dark colors may need a second HOT Synthrapol wash.

Basket Reed Dyeing Instructions

Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Common Salt

Procedure
1. Soak the reed in 1 gallon (4 liters) of room temperature 75^oF to 95^oF (24^oC to 35^oC) water, using a plastic or enamel container for the dye bath. Reed tends to float and should be weighted down. Use a clean brick, stone or water-filled and sealed glass or plastic jars.

2. Dissolve the salt from the chart below, in one quart (1 liter) of HOT 120^oFto 140^oF(49^oC to 60^oC) water. Add dissolved salt to the reed and stir well.

For 1 pound of basket reed:

3. Dissolve the dye. Measure the dye powder, from the chart above, in 1 cup (250 ml) of room temperature 75^oF to 95^oF (24^oC to 35^oC) water. Thoroughly dissolve the dye and add to the dye bath. At this point, check the color of your dye bath. Dip a strip of white 100% cotton fabric into the bath. It's important to remember that wet fabric is approximately 2 shades darker than the final dried reed. If necessary, adjust the color by adding more dissolved dye and stir well.

4. Let the reed soak overnight in the dye bath. Check the color at this point by drying a short piece of the reed. If desired, more dissolved dye can be added. If so, the reed needs to soak overnight again, before continuing the dyeing process.

5. Fix the color. Dissolve the PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash from the chart above, in 1 cup (250 ml) warm 100^oF to 110^oF   (38^oC to 43^oC) water. Add to the dye bath and stir well. Allow the reed to soak overnight.

Cotton & Silk Instructions

Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Urea
PRO Print Paste Mix SH
Synthrapol

Procedure
1. Make the Soak Solution. Dissolve 9 Tbl (80 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash in 1 gallon (4 liters) of warm 95^oF (35^oC) water.

2. Prepare the warp. Stretch the warp on a table covered with plastic. While wearing rubber gloves, dip a large clean sponge or foam brush into the soak solution and liberally apply it to the warp. DO NOT rinse the warp. You can dye paint the warp while it�s wet from the soak solution or let it dry before painting. This soak solution can be kept indefinitely at room temperature in a closed container and can be reused to soak more yarn.

3. Prepare the Print Paste. Measure 5� Tbl (55 gm) PRO Print Paste Mix SH into a dry container. Measure 1 cup (250 ml) of warm 110^oF (44^oC) water into another container. Add measured PRO Print Paste Mix to the water while stirring rapidly. Continue stirring until you obtain a smooth paste. Let paste stand 1 hour or overnight for smoothest results.

Unused paste should be kept in a closed container. Store prepared print paste without dye up to six months. Discard if you detect an ammonia smell.

4. Make the Urea Water. Dissolve 9 Tbl (100 gm) Urea in 1 quart (1 liter) HOT 120^oF (49^oC) water. Allow to cool to room temperature before using.

5. Make the Dye Paint. Measure the PRO MX Reactive dye powder for the shade desired, from the chart below, in a 1 cup (250 ml) container. Thoroughly dissolve the dye powder with just enough Urea Water to make a lump free paste (approximately � cup or 60 ml). Thicken with prepared Print Paste, usually 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml), then add more Urea Water to make 1 cup (250 ml). Stir until thoroughly mixed. Discard dye paint after 3 to 4 days. If warp does not absorb the dye quickly, then add 3 to 4 drops of Synthrapol to the dye paint.

6. Fix the dye. Allow the warp to "cure" by covering it with plastic for a minimum of 4 hours for pastel shades and up to 24 hours for Turquoise and dark shades. Room temperature must be above 70^oF (22^oC).

7. Rinse the warp thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^oto 35^oC) water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4 times. Then wash with very HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water adding � tsp (2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of yarn. Rinse the warp well. If the rinse water is not clear, then wash the yarn again in HOT water with Synthrapol. Once rinse water is clear, squeeze out excess water and air dry.

Warp Painting on Wool & Silk Instructions

Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
Synthrapol
Citric Acid Crystals or white distilled vinegar Urea
PRO Print Paste Mix SH
clear household ammonia

Procedure
1. Make the Acid Soak Solution. Choose one of the methods below. Measure the water from the chart below into a large plastic bucket. Dissolve the Citric Acid Crystals or white distilled vinegar in the water. Add the Synthrapol and stir thoroughly.

2. Prepare the warp. Stretch the warp on a table covered with plastic. While wearing rubber gloves dip a large clean sponge or foam brush into the acid soak solution and liberally apply it to the warp. DO NOT rinse the warp. You can dye paint the warp while it=s damp from the acid soak solution or let it dry before painting. This acid soak solution can be kept for a couple of weeks at room temperature in a closed container and can be reused to soak more yarn.

3. Prepare the Print Paste. Measure 52 Tbl (55 gm) PRO Print Paste Mix SH into a dry container. Measure 1 cup (250 ml) of warm 110EF (44EC) water into another container. Add measured PRO Print Paste Mix to the water while stirring rapidly. Continue stirring until you obtain a smooth paste. Let paste stand 1 hour or overnight for smoothest results. Unused paste should be kept in a closed container. Store prepared print paste without dye up to six months. Discard if you detect an ammonia smell.

4. Make the Urea Water. Measure 9 Tbl (100 gm) Urea in 1 quart (1 liter) HOT 120^oF (49^oC) water. Allow to cool to room temperature before using.

5. Make Dye Paint. Measure the PRO MX Reactive dye powder for the shade desired, from the chart below, in a 1 cup (250 ml) container. Thoroughly dissolve the dye powder with just enough Urea Water to make a lump free paste (approximately � cup or 60 ml). Thicken with prepared Print Paste, usually 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml), then add more Urea Water to make 1 cup (250 ml). Stir until thoroughly mixed. Discard dye paint after 3 to 4 days. If warp does not absorb the dye quickly, then add 3 to 4 drops of Synthrapol to the dye paint.

6. Fix the dye. Allow the warp to "cure" by covering it with plastic for a minimum of 24 hours. Room temperature must be above 70^oF (22^oC). The warmer the Acure@ temperature, the darker the final color.

7. Rinse the warp thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^oto 35^oC) water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4 times. Then wash with very HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water adding 2 tsp. (2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of yarn. Rinse the warp well. If your warp is silk, then stretch it to dry. If the warp is wool, continue through steps 8 and 9.

8. Make the After Soak for Wool. (This is not necessary for silk) Mix 2 Tbl (30 ml) of ammonia in one gallon (4 liters) of room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^oC) water. While wearing rubber gloves, swish your wool around in the ammonia water for 3 to 5 minutes. Rinse in room temperature 75^o to 95^oF (24^o to 35^oC) water.

9. Neutralize the Wool. Mix 1 tsp (5 ml) of Acetic Acid 56% or 11 tsp (55 ml) white distilled vinegar in 1 gallon (4 liters) of room temperature 75^o to 95^o (24^o to 35^oC) water. Wearing rubber gloves, swish the wool around in this vinegar water as the final rinse. Squeeze out the excess water and air dry.

TIE DYE INSTRUCTIONS

Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Urea
Synthrapol
Metaphos (optional, but use if you have hard water)
PRO Chem Flakes (optional, but use if you are in a smoggy environment)

Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140^oF (60^oC) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with � tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash and � tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

2. Make the Soak Solution by measuring 1 gallon (4 liters) of warm 110^oF (44^oC) water in to a 2 gallon bucket. Mix 9 Tbl (80 g) of PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash into the water. Soak the fabric in this Soak Solution for 10 minutes with occasional stirring. While wearing rubber gloves, wring out the fabric well and do not rinse. While the fabric is still wet tie or fold it into the desired pattern. This Soak Solution keeps for a long time at room temperature in a closed container and can be reused to soak more fabric.

3. Make the Urea Water by mixing together the ingredients below. Cool Urea Water to room temperature before using. This Urea Water keeps for a long time at room temperature in a closed container without dye powder. Discard it if you detect an ammonia smell.

9 level Tbl (100 gm) Urea
1 level tsp (2 gm) PRO Chem Flakes (optional)
1 level tsp (7 gm) Metaphos (optional)
1 quart (1 liter) warm 110^oF (44^oC) water

4. Make the Dye Solution by mixing together the ingredients below. For each cup of Urea Water add PRO MX Reactive dye powder to mix the shade desired from the chart below. Shelf life of Dye Solution is 5 to 7 days. However, in the hot summer months it�s best to mix the dye solution every day.

5. Apply the dye. After the fabric or shirt is tied up and while it is still damp, directly apply the dye solution with a sponge brush, squeeze bottles or syringe. Work the dye solution into the shirt or fabric with your gloved fingers to insure thorough saturation. Blend the colors by carefully squeezing, mashing and kneading the shirt or fabric. Check the folds of the fabric to make sure the dye has soaked through. Carefully turn the shirt or fabric over and apply the dye solution to the other side.

It is handy to have a bucket of clear water next to your working area to rinse your hands between color changes. Obtain a fluid color gradation by overlapping one or two colors to produce a third color. Be careful not to apply so much dye that color collects in a pool under the shirt or fabric, as colors run together during the "cure" process. If this happens, gently squeeze out the excess dye solution and move the dyed fabric to a clean area.

6. Fix the dye. Allow the fabric to "cure" for a minimum of 4 hours for pale shades, and up to 24 hours for Turquoise and dark shades. Room temperature must be above 70^oF (22^oC) for the dyes to fix properly. It is optional to wrap the fabric in plastic during the "cure" time. However, you do n