Features
PROCION MX Reactive Dyes Designed
to permanently dye cellulose fibers -- plant-based fibers like cotton,
linen, ramie, hemp, viscose rayon, jute, paper, wood, basket reed, and
even silk - at room temperature. It also
dyes protein fibers wool, silk -- using acid at a boil or with steam. This
is the most reactive of all types of dyes and most versatile with
excellent wash and light fastness properties. Colors range from delicate
pastels to vibrant and are completely intermixable. Two ounces (58 gm) of dye will color 14 yards (13 meters) of
cotton muslin to a medium shade in a solid shade dye bath or 12 T-shirts
for tie dye PRO MX Reactive Dyes can be kept in solution (without
fixative) for four to five days at room temperature
Immersion Dyeing using PRO MX
Reactive Dyes
Please read directions carefully
before starting.
For Batik and Solid Shade dyeing on Cotton, Linen,
Rayon and Silk. Always do test samples before working on a large project. For additional
information, visit our website at www.prochemical.com.
- Wear rubber gloves, apron or old clothes.
- Utensils used for dyeing should never be used for food preparation.
Supplies
PRO MX Dye Powder
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Synthrapol
Common Salt
Metaphos ( water softener): optional - use if you have hard water)
Procedure
1.Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF (60oC)
water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with ½ tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
and ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin,
or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This
step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by
removing any dirt, oil or sizing.
2. Dissolve dye powder. Measure the dissolve desired amount of dye powder, from the
chart below, in 2 cups (500 ml) room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o
to 35oC) water and set aside.
For each pound (454 g) of dry fabric use:
|
Pale |
Medium |
Dark |
Black |
| Dye Powder |
1 tsp (2.5 gm) |
3 tsp (7.5 gm) |
6 tsp (15 gm) |
12 tsp (30 gm) |
| Salt |
1 lb (454 gm) |
1½ lb (680
gm) |
2 lb (900 gm) |
2 lb (900 gm) |
| Dye Activator |
5 Tbl (45 gm) |
5 Tbl (45 gm) |
7 Tbl (65 gm) |
7 Tbl (65 gm) |
3. Prepare dye bath by measuring 2½ gallons (10 liters) of room temperature 75o
to 95oF (24o to 35oC) water for every pound (454 gm) of
fabric into a large plastic, stainless steel, enamel or non-reactive metal container.
Container should be large enough for the fabric to move freely and to stir the dye bath
without spilling.
4. Add salt (see chart above) and 1 level
tsp (7 gm) Metaphos (optional, water softener) to the dye bath and stir until dissolved.
Add dissolved dye and stir. Add washed and damp fabric. Stir continuously for even results
for 10 to 15 minutes, or do not stir for mottled results.
5. Completely dissolve PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash from the
chart above in 2 cups (500ml) warm 95oF (35oC) water. While wearing
rubber gloves remove the fabric from dye bath and pour in the dissolved PRO Dye Activator
or Soda Ash. Give it a stir and return the fabric to dye bath. Stir continuously for the
first 5 minutes. Then, give a stir every 5 minutes for the next 60 minutes. This will
insure maximum permanence and depth of shade.
- For even dye results, stir constantly during the first 30 minutes of
the dye bath.
- To achieve a Deep Black, extend dyeing to 90 minutes after adding PRO
Dye Activator or Soda Ash.
6. Rinse & wash. After 60 minutes (90 minutes,
for black), dyeing is complete. Remove fabric from dye bucket and pour the exhausted dye
bath down the drain. Rinse fabric thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75o
to 95oF (24o to 35oC) water. Change the rinse water 3 to
4 times. Wash in HOT 140oF (60oC) water, adding ½ tsp (2.5 ml)
Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse well and dry. Dark colors may need a second
HOT Synthrapol wash. If the rinse water is not clear, then wash it again in HOT water with
Synthrapol.
TECHNICAL NOTES
- Dye baths cannot be stored or reused after PRO Dye Activator or Soda
Ash has been added.
- If your water is hard, include Metaphos in dye bath.
- It is important to make sure dye powder is dissolved thoroughly
before adding to dye bath. If necessary, use additional water to dissolve dye powder and
strain dye liquor through layers of nylon stockings or cheesecloth. Dye that is not
dissolved before adding to dye bath will not continue to dissolve after being added to the
dye bath.
- Non-iodized Salt is recommended. In most situations, salt with iodine
can be used in place of Non-iodized Salt without altering dye results.
- Increase or decrease quantities in the above chart for larger or
smaller amounts of fabric.
Batik Dyeing Instructions
Batik is an ancient form of resist dyeing. Unwaxed areas of the fabric absorb
dye while the waxed areas resist the dye, preserving the original color of the fabric.
More wax is added to dyed areas preserving the new color and the fabric is dipped in
another color of dye. Repeat this process until the design is completed then remove the
wax. Designs may involve only one or many colors depending upon the number of times the
hot wax is applied and the cloth is dipped into different colored dye baths. For
additional information visit our web site at www.prochemical.com.
- Always use proper ventilation in your work area. Create a
local exhaust system by putting a portable exhaust fan in a window, so it pulls air from
the room to the outside.
- Heated wax releases irritating chemicals including acrolein
and aldehydes. There is no approved MSHA/NIOSH filter for acrolein. A respirator is not a
substitute for good ventilation.
- Heat wax to the lowest temperature at which it remains
liquid.
- Do not leave hot wax unattended, as it is a fire hazard.
- Keep water away from the wax pot, as it will splatter.
Always make sure you have a fire extinguisher or bucket of sand nearby in case of fire.
- Wax forms potentially hazardous vapors at high temperatures
and may ignite. Do not use open flames, such as a gas or propane burner, instead use a
crock pot or electric fry pan with temperature control.
- Make sure your hair is tied back and sleeves are rolled up
when using heating equipment.
- Utensils used for dyeing should never be used for food preparation.
Supplies Equipment
| Solid Shade Immersion
|
Dyeing Direct Application |
Tjanting or
natural bristle brush |
| PRO Dye Activator or
Soda Ash |
PRO MX Reactive Dye |
Temperature controlled pot
|
| PRO MX Reactive Dye |
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash |
Stretcher frame |
| Synthrapol |
Synthrapol |
|
| Salt
|
Urea |
Batik Wax |
Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF (60oC)
water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with � tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
and � tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin,
or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This
step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric for dyeing by
removing any dirt, oil or sizing.
2. Transfer your design and stretch the fabric.
Use light weight fabric, such as fine cotton, silk, rayon, and linen for
your first attempts, as wax penetrates easily on light weight fabrics. Heavier fabrics can
be successfully batiked. Since wax does not penetrate them easily, they require waxing on
both sides to prevent the dye from penetrating from the underside. Before stretching your
fabric, draw your design with a washable marker or soft pencil. Keep the design simple for
your first attempts.
3. Stretch the fabric on a wooden stretcher or picture frame,
embroidery hoop, or cardboard box. Tape or tack the center of each side and then the
corners. The fabric needs to be taut. Also, stretch a small piece of fabric in an
embroidery hoop or on a stretcher frame. This is your test fabric to sample brush and
tjanting strokes.
4. Melt the wax.
The wax should never be heated to the point where is begins to smoke. Heat Batik Wax to
approximately 240oF (115oC). Heat wax in an electric skillet with a
thermostat or use a double boiler, or tin can in an old sauce pan on a hot plate. Remember
that wax is too hot if it smokes. See above for proper ventilation safety while working
with hot wax.
5. How to use a tjanting.
The tjanting, or wax pen, is a drawing tool and produces a continuous flow of
hot wax for outline and linear motifs. Tjantings come in different shapes and sizes. They
have one or two spouts, or one wide brush spout and are available in small, medium, or
large diameter spouts. The width of line is determined by the diameter of the spout, the
speed you are drawing, temperature of wax, and angle of the tjanting. Hold the tjanting
like you are holding a knife.
Make a few practice strokes on your stretched sample fabric to get a feel and
consistent flow of wax. Very hot wax right out of the wax pot may flow too freely. When
the wax becomes sluggish, reheat it to the proper consistency by redipping the tjanting in
the hot wax pot. Use a wire or pin to clear the spout if the tjanting is clogged.
Natural bristle brushes are suitable to fill large areas. Do not use synthetic brushes
as they melt in the hot wax.
6. Apply the wax
Heat the wax and put your brush or the tjanting in it for at least one minute until the
metal bowl is hot. Fill the reservoir about three quarters full so the wax does not flow
over the top while you are working. Follow the pencil lines you've drawn on the fabric.
Make sure there are no gaps in the lines or at the points where they join. Hold the
tjanting at an angle, like a knife, as you work. Use a metal spoon to catch drips while
you start and stop your design, and when you move the tjanting from the fabric to the wax
pot to refill. If you accidentally drip wax, incorporate the dots into the design. Use
quick deliberate strokes, as the wax cools quickly in the tjanting or on a brush.
Wax only the first color where you want it retained. Once the front of the fabric is
waxed, turn it over and wax any areas that did not penetrate completely. Wax that is too
cool will not penetrate through to the reverse side of the fabric and will sit on top.
Heavier fabric usually requires hotter wax. The wax should appear clear when you apply it
and your fabric should be translucent when the wax cools. Since wax is brittle when cold,
the wax design often cracks when the cloth is handled. Dye seeps into the cracks making
the characteristic web-like pattern known as crackle.
Never fold an unfinished, waxed batik. Hang it so it will not
be disturbed. Do not wax damp fabric as the wax will not penetrate the fabric.
7. Color mixing through solid shade immersion dye baths
Successive immersion dye baths build color. Dye the lightest
color first progressing to the darkest. Since the colors are dyed one on top of the other,
except where the fabric is waxed, they combine to produce new colors. For example, if the
first color is yellow and the second color is blue the mixture creates green. Similarly,
if the first color is red and the second color is blue the mixture creates purple. In
either example, you cannot obtain blue, only mixtures with blue. It's helpful to know
basic color mixing to take advantage of this aspect and be prepared to experiment with
color mixing. It is important to plan the dye color order before beginning.
Some colors do not show up over darker colors. In general, use yellow, red, then blue.
Dye your fabric the lightest color and wax it only where you want it reserved. Dye the
fabric a darker color (the next lightest). Each new color intermixes with the previous
color. Repeat waxing and dyeing for as many colors as wanted, covering areas with wax, and
dyeing a darker color each time.
8. Dyeing
Choose the traditional solid shade
immersion dye bath or direct application dye procedure below.
Solid Shade Immersion Dyeing
If you want to avoid a lot of crackle use a flat tray or bin to hold the dye so the
fabric does not have to fold. This way the fabric stays flat so you can control the amount
of crackle. Salt and PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash break down the wax resist. Therefore,
less salt and PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash are used in batik and the dye bath time is
shortened.
- Measure
enough room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o to 35oC)
water to cover your fabric, counting the number of gallons. Soak your waxed fabric for 15
minutes. Remove and set aside.
- Measure the appropriate amount of salt and add it to the
water. Dissolve the appropriate amount of PRO MX Fiber Reactive Dye powder separately in
two cups of room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o to 35oC)
water. Once it is thoroughly dissolved, add it to the dye bath. For each gallon of water
use:
|
1st
color |
2nd
color |
3rd
color |
| Salt |
a cup (90 gm) |
�
cup(145 gm) |
b cup(180 gm) |
| Dye |
d tsp. (1 gm) |
2
tsp. (5 gm) |
4
tsp. (10 gm) |
Then add waxed fabric to the dye bath and let it sit for 10 minutes.
- Completely dissolve the PRO Dye
Activator or Soda Ash in one cup (250 ml) of warm 120o
F (49oC) water. After the 10 minutes carefully remove the fabric. Add the
dissolved dye activator to the dye bath and return the fabric. Stirring is not necessary
but it is a good idea to gently shift fabric from side to side in the tray.
|
1st color |
2nd color |
3rd color |
| Activator |
1 Tbl (9 gm) |
2 Tbl (18 gm) |
3 Tbl (27 gm) |
Direct Application
This approach offers
flexibility and a variety of color and pattern possibilities that cannot be obtained with
the traditional immersion dye bath approach. Hand painting color is useful for very large
pieces that are too large for an immersion dye bath.
After initial waxing takes place, the dye solution is hand painted within the areas
blocked out by the wax. It is easy to blend or juxtapose several colors within the same
waxed area. Synthetic bristle paint brushes work best for controlled application of dye.
Foam brushes work well for larger areas.
- Make the urea water. Measure 9 level Tbl (100 gm) Urea into
a 1 quart (1 liter) container. Measure 1 quart (1 liter) 120oF (49oC)
water into the container and stir until dissolved. Cool urea water to room temperature
before using.
- Make the dye solution. Measure the dye powder, from the
chart below, into a dry 1 cup (250 ml) measure. Dissolve measured dye with 1 cup (250 ml)
of urea water.
|
Pale |
Medium |
Dark |
Black |
| Dye |
�
tsp. (1 gm) |
2
tsp. (5 gm) |
4
tsp. (10 gm) |
8
tsp. (20gm) |
- Make mixed alkali. In a � cup (125 ml) jar with lid mix 4
Tbl (50 gm) baking soda and 1 Tbl (9 gm) PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash. Cap jar and shake
until well mixed. Label, date, and store mixed alkali in a cool, dry place.
- Just before you are ready to paint add 1 tsp (4 gm) Mixed
Alkali to each cup of dye solution. Mix until well blended and mark the time on the jar.
Discard dye solution after 4 hours.
9. Waxing and over dyeing
After the fabric is rinsed and completely dry, pin it to the stretchers and wax the
areas that you want to stay the second color. Examine the first waxing and re-wax areas
where the wax is deteriorating. Repeat Applying the wax and Dyeing until your
design and color combinations are completed.
10. Crackling
Before the last dye bath, cover the entire batik with wax and crackle it before dyeing
your last color; the last color is usually a dark color. The dye penetrates into the
crackled areas producing the characteristic batik effect. You can control the amount of
crackle, to cover only part of the design or cover the entire piece with an overall
effect, by how it is handled through the dye process.
11. Always remember to use proper ventilation when wax is heated. Remove wax by
rubbing the dried fabric together and flake off as much wax as possible. The wax that
falls off may be saved and reused for future batiks. The remainder of the wax is removed
by one of two methods, ironing and boiling or ironing and dry cleaning. Silk should never
be boiled and should be ironed and dry cleaned to remove excess wax.
12. Ironing Since wax clogs the vents of a steam iron, look
at garage sales for an old plain electric iron to use only for batik. Place several sheets
of newspaper over the ironing surface and cover them with plain newsprint. Lay the fabric
on this, and cover with a layer of plain newsprint then newspaper. Press with sufficient
heat to melt the wax out of the fabric. Use the Removing waxhottest setting your fabric
can withstand and iron until the wax saturates the paper. Peel the paper off while it is
still warm and replace it with additional newsprint. Change the paper and repeat this
process until no traces of wax remain on the paper.
13. Boiling Fill a large enamel or stainless steel pot,
which you do not use for cooking, with enough water to cover your fabric. Boil for five to
ten minutes, stirring the fabric to change the folds, allowing the wax to float to the
surface. Remove the pot from the stove. Make sure the fabric is submerged while the water
cools. Skim the solidified wax off the surface and set it aside for reclaiming. Remove the
fabric from the cooled water. If your fabric still contains a lot of wax, repeat this
boiling process then go on to soap boiling.
14. Soap boiling Refill your pot with water and add 1
Tbl(15 ml) of Synthrapol or shaved ivory bar soap. Add fabric and boil for five to ten
minutes, stirring the fabric to change the folds, allowing the wax to float to the
surface. Allow wax to cool and skim wax off the surface and throw it away. Remove your
batik and rinse it several times in a bucket of water. Repeat soap boiling if there is any
wax residue. Do not pour hot rinse water that contains any melted wax down the drain.
Strain cooled rinse water to insure wax does not go down the drain. Do not use this method
for silk.
15. Reclaiming wax Reclaim flaked and boiled wax. Do not
reclaim soap boiled wax. Reclaimed wax is good for crackle effects and is best to keep it
separate from new wax. Collect all the removed wax and melt it in a pot with some water.
Boil the melted wax for 15 to 20 minutes then set it aside to cool. Once the wax is
solidified on top of the water, remove it from the pot. Scrape off and discard the
sediment from the underside of the wax. The remaining clean wax is ready to reuse.
Silk Painting Instructions
Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dyes
Urea
Citric Acid Crystals
Synthrapol
Gutta or Sabra Silk Resist
Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF (60oC)
water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with � tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator or
Soda Ash and � tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards
cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse
thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your fabric
for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.
2. Transfer the design to your fabric using a soft pencil. You may want to draw your
design freehand or use a light table to help you transfer the design. You can also use a
window or sliding glass door. Tape the pattern to the glass surface; then tape the fabric
over the pattern and lightly trace the design onto the fabric.
3. Stretch the fabric. Use a lightweight silk for
your first attempts, as the resist penetrates easily on light weight fabrics. There are
several frames available on the market to stretch fabric for silk painting. You can also
make your own using an artist stretcher frame and stainless steel pushpins. First pin the
corners, then the middle of the sides, pulling the fabric taut. You can avoid stretch
lines by staggering the placement of the pushpins and not placing them directly across
from one another. Continue placing pins every 2 to 3 inches around all four sides, always
pinning from the center to the corners.
4. Apply the resist by pressing the applicator tip firmly
against the stretched fabric. It is important to maintain an even flow and continuous line
as you trace the design. Dye paint will flow through any gaps in the resist line. Check
the back of your fabric to make sure the resist penetrated through. If you see any gaps,
fill them in from the front. You may need to apply the resist on both sides of heavy
fabric. Once you've outlined your design, let the resist dry.
5. Prepare chemical water by mixing together the ingredients
below. Allow chemical water to cool to room temperature before using. This should
be stored in a covered container, when not in use. Discard it if you detect an ammonia
smell.
� cup (188 ml) warm 120oF(49oC) water
5 tsp (20 gm) Urea
1 tsp (6 gm) Citric Acid Crystals
� tsp (1.25 ml) Synthrapol
Water to equal one cup (250 ml)
6. Make the Dye Paint. Thoroughly dissolve the desired amount
of dye powder, from the following chart, with just enough chemical water to make a lump
free paste (approximately � cup or 60 ml). Then add chemical water to make 1 cup (250 ml)
of Dye Paint and stir until thoroughly mixed. Dye paint will retain maximum color yield
for 4-5 hours.
For each cup of Dye Paint, use the amount listed below of PRO MX
Reactive Dye powder for the desired shade.
|
Pale |
Medium |
Dark |
Black |
| Dye
Powder |
�
tsp (1.5 gm) |
2 tsp
(5 gm) |
4 tsp
(10 gm) |
8 tsp
(20 gm) |
7. Apply the dye. Fill a wide mouth container
with water; use this to rinse your brushes. The size of the area
you are painting determines the size of brush you need. Use a small brush for small areas
and a larger brush to cover bigger areas. Dip the brush into the dye paint and lightly
touch the brush to the center of an enclosed area. Allow the dye paint to spread out to
the resist line. Continue adding dye paint and blending brush strokes or colors while dye
is still wet and until the enclosed area is filled. Work quickly to prevent the dye form
drying before you have all the color applied to an area. Be careful not to flood the
fabric with too much dye, or the resist lines will break. Use a cotton swab or dry brush
to mop up extra dye that pools in an enclosed area. Do not paint over the resist line.
8. Fix the dye, by covering your silk with plastic (a black plastic bag works
great) to prevent the silk from drying out. Allow the dyes to cure for 24 hours or longer.
The temperature of the room must be above 70oF (21oC). The warmer
the "cure" temperature, the darker the final color.
9. Rinse the fabric. After setting the dye, rinse fabric
thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75oF to 95oF (24oC
to 35oC) water. Change the water 3 to 4 times. Then wash with very HOT 140oF
(60oC) water adding � tsp (2 ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric.
Rinse well and dry. Black and very dark colors may need a second HOT Synthrapol wash.
By the way, this technique
works well on lightweight cotton, linen, and rayon fabrics. Follow the methods for mixing
chemical water and for fixing the dyes as outlined in our Direct Application directions.
Basket Reed Dyeing Instructions
Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Common Salt
Procedure
1.
Soak the reed in 1
gallon (4 liters) of room temperature 75oF to 95oF (24oC
to 35oC) water, using a plastic or enamel container for the dye bath. Reed
tends to float and should be weighted down. Use a clean brick, stone or water-filled and
sealed glass or plastic jars.
2. Dissolve the salt
from the chart below, in
one quart (1 liter) of HOT 120oFto 140oF(49oC to 60oC)
water. Add dissolved salt to the reed and stir well.
For 1 pound of basket reed:
| Water |
1 gallon, or
enough to cover the reed (4 liters) |
| Common Salt |
1 cup (299 gm) |
| PRO MX Reactive Dye
|
approximately
3 tsp (7.5 gm) |
| PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash |
� cup (115
gm) |
3. Dissolve the dye.
Measure
the dye powder, from the chart above, in 1 cup (250 ml) of room temperature 75oF
to 95oF (24oC to 35oC) water. Thoroughly dissolve the dye
and add to the dye bath. At this point, check the color of your dye bath. Dip a strip of
white 100% cotton fabric into the bath. It's important to remember that wet fabric is
approximately 2 shades darker than the final dried reed. If necessary, adjust the color by
adding more dissolved dye and stir well.
4. Let the reed soak overnight
in
the dye bath. Check the color at this point by drying a short piece of the reed. If
desired, more dissolved dye can be added. If so, the reed needs to soak overnight again,
before continuing the dyeing process.
5. Fix the color.
Dissolve the PRO Dye
Activator or Soda Ash from the chart above, in 1 cup (250 ml) warm 100oF to 110oF
(38oC to 43oC) water. Add to the dye bath and stir well.
Allow the reed to soak overnight.
6. Pour off the dye bath
and rinse reed until
the water runs clear and air dry. The reed is now ready for weaving.
Cotton & Silk Instructions
Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Urea
PRO Print Paste Mix SH
Synthrapol
Procedure
1. Make the Soak Solution. Dissolve 9 Tbl (80 gm) PRO Dye Activator
or Soda Ash in 1 gallon (4 liters) of warm 95oF (35oC) water.
2. Prepare the warp. Stretch the warp on a table covered with
plastic. While wearing rubber gloves, dip a large clean sponge or foam brush into the soak
solution and liberally apply it to the warp. DO NOT rinse the warp. You can dye paint the
warp while it�s wet from the soak solution or let it dry before painting. This soak
solution can be kept indefinitely at room temperature in a closed container and can be
reused to soak more yarn.
3. Prepare the Print Paste. Measure 5� Tbl (55 gm) PRO Print
Paste Mix SH into a dry container. Measure 1 cup (250 ml) of warm 110oF (44oC)
water into another container. Add measured PRO Print Paste Mix to the water while stirring
rapidly. Continue stirring until you obtain a smooth paste. Let paste stand 1 hour or
overnight for smoothest results.
Unused paste should be kept in a closed container. Store
prepared print paste without dye up to six months. Discard if you detect an ammonia smell.
4. Make the Urea Water. Dissolve 9 Tbl (100 gm) Urea in 1 quart
(1 liter) HOT 120oF (49oC) water. Allow to cool to room temperature
before using.
5. Make the Dye Paint. Measure the PRO MX Reactive dye powder
for the shade desired, from the chart below, in a 1 cup (250 ml) container. Thoroughly
dissolve the dye powder with just enough Urea Water to make a lump free paste
(approximately � cup or 60 ml). Thicken with prepared Print Paste, usually 1 to 2 tsp (5
to 10 ml), then add more Urea Water to make 1 cup (250 ml). Stir until thoroughly mixed.
Discard dye paint after 3 to 4 days. If warp does not absorb the dye quickly, then add 3
to 4 drops of Synthrapol to the dye paint.
|
Pale |
Medium |
Dark |
Black |
|
Dye
powder |
�
tsp (1 gm) |
2 tsp
(5 gm) |
4 tsp
(10 gm) |
8 tsp
(20 gm) |
6. Fix the dye. Allow the warp to "cure" by covering
it with plastic for a minimum of 4 hours for pastel shades and up to 24 hours for
Turquoise and dark shades. Room temperature must be above 70oF (22oC).
7. Rinse the warp thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75o
to 95oF (24oto 35oC) water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4
times. Then wash with very HOT 140oF (60oC) water adding � tsp
(2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of yarn. Rinse the warp well. If the rinse water is
not clear, then wash the yarn again in HOT water with Synthrapol. Once rinse water is
clear, squeeze out excess water and air dry.
Warp Painting on Wool & Silk Instructions
Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
Synthrapol
Citric Acid Crystals or white distilled vinegar Urea
PRO Print Paste Mix SH
clear household ammonia
Procedure
1. Make the Acid Soak Solution. Choose one of the methods below. Measure the water from
the chart below into a large plastic bucket. Dissolve the Citric Acid Crystals or white
distilled vinegar in the water. Add the Synthrapol and stir thoroughly.
|
Method
#1 - Citric Acid Crystals |
Method
#2 - White Distilled Vinegar |
|
1 gallon
(4 liters) 95oF (35oC) water |
2 quarts
(2 liters) 95oF (35oC) water |
|
11 Tbl
(193 gm) Citric Acid Crystals |
2 quarts
(2 liters) white distilled vinegar |
|
2 tsp (10
ml) Synthrapol |
2 tsp (10
ml) Synthrapol |
2. Prepare the warp. Stretch the warp on a table covered with plastic.
While wearing rubber gloves dip a large clean sponge or foam brush into the acid soak
solution and liberally apply it to the warp. DO NOT rinse the warp. You can dye paint the
warp while it=s damp
from the acid soak solution or let it dry before painting. This acid soak solution can be
kept for a couple of weeks at room temperature in a closed container and can be reused to
soak more yarn.
3. Prepare the Print Paste. Measure 52 Tbl (55 gm) PRO Print Paste Mix
SH into a dry container. Measure 1 cup (250 ml) of warm 110EF (44EC) water into
another container. Add measured PRO Print Paste Mix to the water while stirring rapidly.
Continue stirring until you obtain a smooth paste. Let paste stand 1 hour or overnight for
smoothest results. Unused paste should be kept in a closed container. Store prepared print
paste without dye up to six months. Discard if you detect an ammonia smell.
4. Make the Urea Water.
Measure 9 Tbl (100 gm) Urea in 1 quart (1
liter) HOT 120oF (49oC) water. Allow to cool to room temperature
before using.
5. Make Dye Paint.
Measure the PRO MX Reactive dye powder for
the shade desired, from the chart below, in a 1 cup (250 ml) container.
Thoroughly dissolve the dye powder with just enough Urea Water to make a lump
free paste (approximately � cup or 60 ml). Thicken with prepared Print Paste,
usually 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml), then add more Urea Water to make 1 cup (250
ml). Stir until thoroughly mixed. Discard dye paint after 3 to 4 days.
If warp does not absorb the dye
quickly, then add 3 to 4 drops of Synthrapol to the dye paint.
|
|
Pale |
Medium |
Dark |
Black |
|
Dye powder |
2 tsp (1 gm) |
2 tsp (5
gm) |
4 tsp (10
gm) |
8 tsp (20
gm) |
6. Fix the dye. Allow the warp to "cure" by covering it with
plastic for a minimum of 24 hours. Room temperature must be above 70oF
(22oC). The warmer the Acure@
temperature, the darker the final color.
7. Rinse the warp thoroughly
in a bucket of room temperature 75o to 95oF (24oto 35oC)
water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4 times. Then wash with very HOT 140oF (60oC)
water adding 2 tsp.
(2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of yarn. Rinse the warp well. If your warp is silk,
then stretch it to dry. If the warp is wool, continue through steps 8 and 9.
8. Make the After Soak for Wool. (This is not necessary for silk) Mix
2 Tbl (30 ml) of ammonia in one gallon (4 liters) of room temperature 75o to 95oF
(24oC) water. While wearing rubber gloves, swish your wool around in the
ammonia water for 3 to 5 minutes. Rinse in room temperature 75o to 95oF
(24o to 35oC) water.
9. Neutralize the Wool. Mix 1 tsp (5 ml) of Acetic Acid 56% or 11 tsp
(55 ml) white distilled vinegar in 1 gallon (4 liters) of room temperature 75o
to 95o (24o to 35oC) water. Wearing rubber gloves, swish
the wool around in this vinegar water as the final rinse. Squeeze out the excess water and
air dry.
TIE DYE INSTRUCTIONS Supplies
PRO MX Reactive Dye
PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash
Urea
Synthrapol
Metaphos (optional, but use if you have hard water)
PRO Chem Flakes (optional, but use if you are in a smoggy environment)
Procedure
1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF
(60oC) water, or by hand in a pot on the stove with � tsp (2 gm) PRO Dye
Activator or Soda Ash and � tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric (454 gm, or 3 to
4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts, or 1 sweatshirt).
Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it prepares your
fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.
2. Make the Soak Solution by measuring 1 gallon (4 liters) of warm 110oF
(44oC) water in to a 2 gallon bucket. Mix 9 Tbl (80 g) of PRO Dye Activator or
Soda Ash into the water. Soak the fabric in this Soak Solution for 10 minutes with
occasional stirring. While wearing rubber gloves, wring out the fabric well and do not
rinse. While the fabric is still wet tie or fold it into the desired pattern. This
Soak Solution keeps for a long time at room temperature in a closed container and can be
reused to soak more fabric.
3. Make the Urea Water by mixing together the ingredients below. Cool Urea Water to
room temperature before using. This Urea Water keeps for a long time at room temperature
in a closed container without dye powder. Discard it if you detect an ammonia smell.
9 level Tbl (100 gm) Urea
1 level tsp (2 gm) PRO Chem Flakes (optional)
1 level tsp (7 gm) Metaphos (optional)
1 quart (1 liter) warm 110oF (44oC) water
4. Make the Dye Solution by mixing together the ingredients below. For each cup of
Urea Water add PRO MX Reactive dye powder to mix the shade desired from the chart below.
Shelf life of Dye Solution is 5 to 7 days. However, in the hot summer months it�s
best to mix the dye solution every day.
|
Pale |
Medium |
Dark |
Black |
| Dye powder |
� tsp (1 gm) |
2 tsp (5 gm) |
4 tsp (10 gm) |
8 tsp (20 gm) |
5. Apply the dye. After the fabric or shirt is tied up and while it is still
damp, directly apply the dye solution with a sponge brush, squeeze bottles or syringe.
Work the dye solution into the shirt or fabric with your gloved fingers to insure thorough
saturation. Blend the colors by carefully squeezing, mashing and kneading the shirt or
fabric. Check the folds of the fabric to make sure the dye has soaked through. Carefully
turn the shirt or fabric over and apply the dye solution to the other side.
It is handy to have a bucket of clear water next to your working area to rinse your
hands between color changes. Obtain a fluid color gradation by overlapping one or two
colors to produce a third color. Be careful not to apply so much dye that color collects
in a pool under the shirt or fabric, as colors run together during the "cure"
process. If this happens, gently squeeze out the excess dye solution and move the dyed
fabric to a clean area.
6. Fix the dye. Allow the fabric to "cure" for a minimum of 4 hours for
pale shades, and up to 24 hours for Turquoise and dark shades. Room temperature must be
above 70oF (22oC) for the dyes to fix properly. It is optional to
wrap the fabric in plastic during the "cure" time. However, you do not want the
fabric to dry. It�s fine to let the shirt or fabric sit longer than the minimum time.
7. Rinse the fabric. Untie and unfold the fabric. Rinse the fabric thoroughly in a
bucket of room temperature 75oto 95oF (24oto 35oC)
water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4 times. Do not stack the rinsed shirts on top of
themselves before the HOT Synthrapol wash, because the dye frequently transfers and stains
other fabric it touches. Then wash in HOT 140oF (60oC) water, adding
� tsp (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse well and dry.
|
